The dessert we eat with the turkey

The dessert we eat with the turkey

"So, have you as well as your sister nailed down the Thanksgiving menu?" I asked my lovely wife.

"Pretty much," she said.

"So what are we bringing?"

"We're not obligated to bring anything," she replied, "since we're coming from so far away. But Renee wants sweet potato casserole. She loves your sweet potato casserole."

"Why's that a problem?"

"Well. She loves it the way we make it."

Ah, I see, I think to myself. It's one of those annual Thanksgiving mysteries; "why is it," the refrain goes, "that I followed Aunt Emma's recipe exactly, but mine does not taste as good as hers?"

It's ironic that Rhonda's sister, Renee, thinks that our sweet potato casserole is the best ever, due to we think that ours is somehow not as good as my sister Peggy's, from whom we got the recipe, and who swears she is not holding out any secret ingredient or technique.

The fact is, all cooks impart something of themselves into everything they cook. Call it the cook's hand, or cook's shadow, or whatever; each person who prepares a dish adds something intangible to the final product.

And this is especially true, it seems to me, for dishes like sweet potato casserole, for which there are about a million different recipes, most of them similar, yet each one a little different.

Of course most of those million different recipes originated here in the South. We eat sweet potatoes year round down here, but in numerous parts of the country, sweet potatoes are seldom found on fine tables except at Thanksgiving, and maybe Christmas, usually in some tooth achingly sweet combination like sweet potato casserole.

It's pretty much that way all over the world; in warmer areas, individuals love sweet potatoes and eat them all the time, in all sorts of ways, but in colder climates they either have never heard of them or do not concern for them.

But that notwithstanding, and as frequent and plebeian as the dish is, you are still likely to find it on the most elegant and sumptuous tables in America this Thanksgiving for one reason, and one reason exclusively --- it is delicious.

Sweet potatoes themselves are an uncommon food, with a fascinating history, part of what historians refer to as the Columbian Exchange, that group of foods, animals, products, diseases and whatever else that moved from the old world to the new, or the early to the old, as a happen of Columbus's discovery of the New World and subsequent explorations.

Columbus specifically mentioned sweet potatoes in his diary on his fourth voyage. They were called batatas by the natives, and sometime around the year 1500, someone brought some of them back to Spain. Then, inside a couple of years, Spanish explorers had taken them to the Philippine Islands and the East Indies. From there they spread to India, China and Malaysia, and finally to Japan.

They came to the United States in the early 1600's and were cultivated in the Virginia Colony as early as 1648. Not too many years later they were being shipped into New England. Northern and Southern taste preferences manifested themselves from the beginning, with Northerners preferring the "dry fleshed" varieties while Southerners loved the softer "moist fleshed" varieties referred to, incorrectly, as yams, which are actually a different food entirely.

And speaking of names, for many years after their introduction n the Old World, sweet potatoes were referred to just as "potatoes" because they were the only potatoes anyone knew about.

White potatoes, such as those we refer to as "Irish potatoes," did not make their way to Europe until 1570, 70 years after the introduction of the sweet potato.

Originally sweet potatoes were eaten as savory vegetables, partly because sugar was very, very scarce, but sometime, possibly late in the 19th Century, recipes began to appear for "candied sweet potatoes," some of them topped with something called marshmallows, others covered with sugar and nut praline topping. People still argue over which is better.

Me? I'm like a hitchhiker in a bad town when it comes to the issue of what to put atop a sweet potato casserole; I could go either way.

But at our house, although we sometimes make one with a buttery, brown sugar and pecan combination, we usually prefer a crown of bubbly, golden brown mosaic of toasted marshmallows.

But what, exactly, are marshmallows? Next week we'll talk about how an Egyptian cake-like dessert evolved into something that is nearly as much a part of our American Thanksgiving as the turkey and the pumpkin pie.

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When could you find aid if not on Thanksgiving?

When could you find aid if not on Thanksgiving?

When my family arrives for dinner next Thursday, they'll know exactly what'll be on the table:

Roast turkey (simple, coated with herbs). Mashed potatoes (with sour cream, cream cheese and butter). Gravy. My sweet potato casserole. Green bean casserole (yes, that one). Frozen corn. Dressing.

Also cranberry sauce, my mother's lime-cheese gelatin salad and mini-cream puff muffins with currants.

For dessert: pumpkin pie with real whipped cream sweetened with raw sugar. And to drink: sparkling apple and grape juices.

Boring?

How about comforting?

Life is chaotic and stressful enough all year and fixing dinner each day a struggle. For this one meal, when Americans lift their forks as one, I want the same meal I always have. The foods we like. The foods everyone expects. Thanksgiving dinner, to me, is all about family tradition.

Emphasis on the word "family."

Every student of history knows that what a little of consider to be the "traditional" Thanksgiving meal, a la Pilgrims, is rife with myth and misinformation. There really is no such thing. And modern-day traditional Thanksgiving Day foods vary considerably by geographical region.

What's traditional at Thanksgiving for us really began when I set up my own household.

Aside from my mom's gelatin, and mashed potatoes of many kind, I can't say I make anything I grew up eating as a child on the holiday.

I do not roast a duck (though I do so miss duck gravy - it's the best). I don't prepare my mom's dressing, baked separately, with its ground-up giblets, raisins and celery and lots of sage. Nor do I make her cranberry gelatin salad, pocked with chopped apples, celery and walnuts - truthfully, not my favorite.

But after 30 years of doing Turkey Day my way, I barely remember those.

My daughters, on the different hand - 23 and 26 years into this annual feast - know their mother's menu inside and out. They'd be OK with maybe one new dish, they said, but otherwise they want things left alone.

"I think it's all the smells and all the ritual of it that makes it feel like Thanksgiving," said my eldest, Gwen. "Otherwise it's just another meal. This is the only time of year you mix all those dishes together."

Noting the power of smell to trigger memories, she added, "If you mix it up, it's not going to feel like Thanksgiving."

In my defense, I am not 100% rigid. Recognizing that tradition is "a guide and not a jailer," as W. Somerset Maugham once wrote, I have ventured from my comfort zone for some Thanksgivings past.

One year I made four versions of pumpkin pie: the regular (off the Libby's can, with double the spices), one with a custard layer, another with a cream cheese layer and finally, a chiffon pumpkin pie with a gingersnap crust.

They were all good, but guess which one everyone liked best?

Every other year or so, I try a new cranberry sauce. There have been some winners, but heaven help me if I don't also serve that ridged cylinder of garnet gel from the can.

I added dressing to the menu one year after my second marriage, at my husband's request. Last year Tofurkey shared oven space, for the two vegetarians at the table. If time permits, we add a special cauliflower dish to the meal, one we all like.

Recalling what Thanksgiving dinner meant to him, my husband gave me yet another reason to stick with tradition.

As a kid, Thanksgiving was for him and his cousins "the day we had Grandma's fruit salad and her dinner rolls and creamed corn."

"There are some foods that go with the day," he said. "Especially if you're inviting the little ones over, and especially to Grandma's house, they all have their favorites, and they look forward to them being there. If you experiment, they don't know what they're walking into. You want that reputation when you're a grandma?"

(Well, I'm not one yet, but no!)

He noted, sadly, that his grandmother's dinner roll recipe died with her.

"Thirty five years later we're still in mourning that we don't have that recipe."
Nancy's Thanksgiving recipes

I made up my own version of this sweet-potato-apple casserole when, 11 years ago, Cook's Illustrated came out with a similar recipe. This one is a blend of the two. I always use nuts, and I prefer the earthy flavor of black walnuts to the sweeter pecans (plus, they have sentimental value).

In keeping with my marriage to tradition, I have not tried any of the variations listed below.
Maple Sweet Potato-Apple Casserole
Makes 8 to 10 servings

5 medium sweet potatoes

3 to 4 large baking apples

7 tablespoons real maple syrup (divided)

1/2 cup finely chopped pecans or black walnuts (optional)

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter, melted

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

3 tablespoons apple juice

2 tablespoons cornstarch

To bake casserole in oven: Peel sweet potatoes, halve lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices. In large pot of boiling water over high heat, parboil sweet potato slices until bright orange and point of sharp knife easily pierces but does not break apart slices, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain well.

Meanwhile, while sweet potatoes are boiling, peel, core and slice apples, then saute' in non-stick skillet in 2 tablespoons maple syrup over medium heat until softened but not mushy, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Place sweet potatoes in even layer in buttered 13-by-9-inch baking dish, overlapping as needed. Top evenly with apples. Sprinkle evenly with pecans, if desired.

In 2-cup measure, whisk join togethermelted butter, remaining 5 tablespoons maple syrup, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg. In small bowl, whisk together apple juice and cornstarch until smooth. Whisk into butter mixture. Pour evenly over apples and sweet potatoes.

Cover tightly with foil and bake in preheated oven until liquid is bubbly, about 45 minutes. Uncover and bake until liquid thickens to glaze potatoes and apples, about 15 minutes.

To make ahead and reheat: Cook sweet potatoes in skins in microwave; pierce first with a fork and cook on high 12 to 14 minutes, turning over halfway through, until tender. Let cool, peel and slice. Cook apples as above. Layer in souffle' dish, alternating sweet potatoes and apples and sprinkling with nuts (if desired) and pouring butter-maple-cornstarch mixture over every layer. Cover and refrigerate until needed. Bring to room temperature and heat with turkey in 325-degree oven last 30 minutes of roasting time, or until hot. Or, heat in microwave 3 to 4 minutes on high (100%) power.

Variations:

. Substitute rum or bourbon for apple juice.

. Layer some drained, canned crushed pineapple with the sweet potatoes and apples.

. Layer some plumped golden raisins or plumped dried cranberries with the sweet potatoes and apples.

-----

It wasn't a holiday meal at my house - Thanksgiving dinner included - without this simple gelatin salad. It's the only such salad I still make, though numerous others populated my childhood table.

The fluffy concoction is sweet enough to stand as dessert, but of course, that spot is taken up by pumpkin pie.
Lime-Cheese Jell-O Salad
Makes 5 to 6 servings

1 could (81/4 ounces) crushed pineapple in juice (do not drain)

3 tablespoons sugar

1 small package (3 ounces) lime gelatin

1/2 cup water

1/2 cup pineapple juice

3/4 cup grated yellow cheese (medium or sharp cheddar or Colby)

1/2 cup whipping cream, whipped

1/2 cup finely chopped walnuts

In medium saucepan, cook pineapple, sugar and gelatin over medium-low heat, stirring just until gelatin is dissolved.

Stir in water and the 1/2 cup pineapple juice. Transfer to a bowl and place in refrigerator until it is partially set, about an hour and a half.

Fold in cheese, whipped cream and nuts, transfer to a serving bowl, cover and chill until firm. (Or, divide among individual dishes, such as dessert cups or small salad bowls, and refrigerate until set.)

Note: I double this for Thanksgiving.

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Enjoying a sweet 'n' savory sausage casserole

Enjoying a sweet 'n' savory sausage casserole

Sausage -- it's not just for breakfast anymore! It's not just for mixing into cornbread stuffing or cramming into mushroom caps. You've got a complete cold weather comfort food in this Savory Sausage and Sweet Potato Casserole, which takes advantage of two prime specimens of the season: apples and pears. Add in some gorgeous orange yams, and you've made a fabulous dinner for a dreary, rainy day!
Bowl of Apples.JPG

Beautiful specimens of the season: apples and mums ....

Mary Bilyeu, Contributor

This recipe came about as a challenge. My son Jeremy never used to like Shepherd's Pie, a glorious combination of meat and vegetables and gravy and -- one of his very favorite foods -- mashed potatoes. He would eat each item individually, but something about them sharing space was a problem. So I was determined to find some version that he would eat ... and thus, this variation on the theme was born. There's meat, there's produce, there's gravy, and there's a non-crust topping; Jeremy has loved it from the first moment he tried it.

So when I found out that Jimmy Dean and Taste of Home magazine are sponsoring a contest with a possible $2500 cash prize, this was the obvious choice for my entry. Unfortunately, the casserole is not very photogenic; I took pictures of it in the baking dish (a vast swath of orange), on the plate (a pile of brown with flecks of orange), on a fork (a tidbit of brown with a hint of orange) ... I would be embarrassed to have any of you see the pile of mush that it appears to be when facing a camera. And yet, the aroma is amazing and the taste sublime! Never judge a book by its cover, and never judge a delicious sweet and savory dinner by its lack of supermodel beauty ....
Jimmy Dean sausage.JPG

Mary Bilyeu, Contributor

Savory Sausage and Sweet Potato Casserole

3 large yams
1 pound Jimmy Dean Mild Country Sausage
1 small onion, chopped
2 large Ambrosia apples, peeled, cored, quartered, chopped into 1/2" dice
2 large Bosc pears, peeled, cored, quartered, chopped into 1/2" dice
2 cups apple cider, divided
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

Preheat oven to 425? F. Pierce the yams with a knife and bake for 1 to 1-1/2 hours, until very tender.

Meanwhile, saute' the sausage in a 10" skillet over medium high temperature until nearly brown. Add the onion, apples and pears; cook for 2 minutes, stirring, then cover the skillet and cook for 10 minutes.

In a small saucepan, bring 1-1/4 cups cider to a boil along with the cornstarch and nutmeg; turn heat to "low" and let cook for 5 minutes. Stir cider into the sausage mixture, and place into an 8"x8" casserole dish.

When the yams are ready, cut them in half lengthwise and scoop the flesh into a large mixing bowl. Mash the yams with the remaining 3/4 cup cider, then spoon the mixture over the sausage. Serve hot.


Mary Bilyeu has won or placed in more than 60 cooking contests and writes about her adventures as she tries to win prizes, feeds hungry teenagers and other loved ones, and generally just has fun in the kitchen. The phrase "You Should Only Be Happy" (written in Hebrew on the stone pictured next to the blog's title) comes from Deuteronomy 16:15, and is a wish for all her readers as they cook along with her ... may you always be happy here!

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The dessert you eat with the turkey (part II)

The dessert you eat with the turkey (part II)

As I mentioned last week, my sister-in-law has requested that Rhonda and I bring our version of sweet potato casserole (which's very my sister Peggy's recipe) to the family Thanksgiving feast. It is actually one of two versions we make, but she has specifically requested the one with the marshmallows on top.

Apparently a lot of people have similar taste cravings around this time of year, due to Americans purchase approximately 35 million pounds of marshmallows from October to the end of the year, and a significant percentage of that tonnage will wind up on Thanksgiving dinner tables floating atop sweet potato casseroles.

The dish has become a Thanksgiving classic, right behind turkey and green bean casserole.

It's hard, in our family, to even imagine Thanksgiving dinner without it, and just about everybody I know agrees. I have read, however, that it wasn't completely that common on American tables until 1930. That's the year the Campfire Marshmallow Company published a booklet called, How Famous Chefs Use Campfire Marshmallows.

In the booklet there were a half-dozen different recipes for whipped sweet potatoes covered with a little of sort of toasted marshmallow crust. Following that, marshmallow dishes became all the rage, and the sweet potato casserole was regarded as a glamorous dish for trendy cooks to treat their families to, but by the 60's, marshmallows had lost their cachet, and marshmallow topped sweet potato casseroles may have disappeared from sophisticated Thanksgiving tables entirely except for one thing; they are delicious, one of the few desserts you get to eat with the main course instead of after it. How sweet is that?

And whether the marshmallows on top are actually a flavor enhancer or merely a ceremonial addition, for many Thanksgiving traditionalists they are derigueur.

Marshmallows themselves have an moving lineage, going at least all the way back to ancient Egypt. As early as 2000 B.C., the Egyptians were extracting sap from mallow plants to add with honey to make a kind of cake-like candy.

This dish doubled, for the Egyptians, as both a treat and a digestive. The mallow plants used to make the concoction grew in saltwater marshes, so the dish came by its name naturally.

Thirty-five hundred or so years later marshmallows made their way to Europe, being used there originally as a sore throat remedy. The French were the first to make marshmallows similar to those we know today. In the 1880's, they began whipping mallow plant sap with sugar and egg whites into a fluff they rolled into lozenges.

These fast became so popular that confectioners couldn't make enough to visit demand, but then someone came up with the idea of replacing the mallow sap with a gelatin, which was not only less bitter, but allowed better shelf life, a more stable product, a bigger customer base and greater popularity. Without the mallow sap, whatever medical value marshmallows contained had disappeared, but by then it was being eaten pretty much for the flavor alone.

Inevitably, marshmallow candies made their way to American candy shops and grocery stores, and by the early 1900's they began to show up in all sorts of confections. First came the various marshmallow creams such as Hip-o-Lite and Snowflake. The most famous brand, and my hands down favorite, Marshmallow Fluff, was actually sold door to door at one time.

It seems that one taste was all it took for Americans to realize that marshmallows were one of the greatest fun foods of all time. In 1912, a Nashville, Tennessee candy maker invented the world's first combination candy bar, a gooey mess of marshmallow, caramel and peanuts covered with milk chocolate. His advertising slogan was, "A Nourishing Lunch for a Nickel," not entirely correct, but his GooGoo Clusters sold like hot cakes anyway,and they still do.

Mallomar's came along the next year, and then four years later another Tennessean, a salesman for the Chattanooga Bakery, came up with the idea of producing a large, chocolate covered, marshmallow-filled cookie "as big as the rising moon." This year 50 million of his MoonPies will be shipped all across the nation.

A few years later, the Girl Scouts, in their 1927 Girl Scout Handbook, taught us how to make s'mores, a recipe for the ages if there ever was one. Then, a decade later, the Campfire Girls debuted Rice Krispy treats as part of a fund-raising project.

Today we still use marshmallows to make all sorts of fun foods. Rice Krispy treats, Marshmallow Peeps, fudge and hot chocolate, not to mention about a hundred different kinds of Jell-O salads.

And, of course, as a golden brown and bubbly crown for the sweet potato casserole on our Thanksgiving tables. As I said earlier, how sweet it is.

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Thanksgiving takeout as well as dining options

Thanksgiving takeout as well as dining options

Thanksgiving is next week, and if that takes you by surprise, there are at least a couple of ways to deal with the fact that you have yet to plan Thanksgiving dinner: reservations at any of the dozens of restaurants that will be celebrating the holiday, or takeout. In addition to the listings below, check your local grocer for takeout options. And besides numerous notable hotel dining rooms, restaurants completely over the Southland are offering wonderful menus for Thanksgiving dinner. You've got choices from the conventional to the not-so-traditional to the vegan. Oh, and there's sushi. FOR THE RECORD:
Eating out on Thanksgiving: In Wednesday's Food section, an article about Thanksgiving takeout and dining-out options said that all four Katsuya locations would be open Thanksgiving Day. Only the Katsuya in Brentwood will be open, from 4 to 9 p.m. ---


TAKEOUT

Ammo is offering Thanksgiving takeout, everything priced a la carte, such as house-cured salmon with cre`me frai^che; charcuterie; cheeses; 12- to 14-pound Willie Bird free-range turkeys, cooked ($85) or uncooked and oven-ready ($75); roasted sweet potatoes with spicy maple butter; horseradish mashed potatoes; and whole-grain chestnut and sage stuffing. Among the dessert choices: pumpkin pie with brandied whipped cream. Order by 3 p.m. Sunday for pickup on Nov. 25, from 11:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., with heating instructions. 1155 N. Highland Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 871-2666; www.ammocafe.com.

Auntie Em's Kitchen in Eagle Rock, in addition to pickup orders, is offering delivery for $25 extra. The meal centers on either a turkey breast or a vegetarian savory nut pie, with all the basic fixings (gravy, stuffing, sweet and mashed potatoes) for $35 per person, plus a variety of sides, $9.95 to $12.95 for servings for four. Finish with an assortment of pies ($18.95) or cupcakes ($3.50 each). 4616 Eagle Rock Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 255-0800; www.auntieemskitchen.com.

See Bottega Louie under Dine-in.

See Campanile under Dine-in.

Clay Oven in Irvine is preparing its tandoori Thanksgiving, with a 10- to 12-pound free-range, skinned turkey that is marinated for 48 hours in a blend of fresh spices, then cooked in the mesquite-fired tandoor oven. It comes with basmati rice stuffing and cranberry chutney, and, at $54.95, serves six people comfortably. Orders must be in by Monday, and pickup is Thanksgiving Day, from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. 15435 Jeffrey Road, Irvine; (949) 552-2851; www.clayovenirvine.com.

See Fiamme Restaurant & Bar under Dine-in.

See Gordon Ramsay at the London West Hollywood under Dine-in.

At Grace, Neal Fraser is deep-frying turkeys ($145 for eight servings) and offering a dozen different dishes, including thyme and black truffle turkey gravy, braised baby vegetables and cream cheese and chive biscuits. Desserts include a sweet potato pecan pie with toasted bourbon marshmallow and orange cre`me anglaise and sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce and cranberries (each option is $30 for eight servings). Orders must be placed by 5 p.m. Nov. 24 and picked up 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Nov. 25. 7360 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 934-4400; www.gracerestaurant.com.

Guelaguetza is preparing Oaxacan-style turkeys with a deliriously rich stuffing of prunes, raisins, olives, capers, ground beef and potatoes. The turkey is marinated (and injected) with a spicy wine sauce. The meal serves six to eight, comes with potato salad, bean paste and chiles vinagre, all for $65. Add an order of mole negro for an additional $10. Order before Nov. 25. 3337 1/2 W. 8th St., Los Angeles; (213) 427-0601; www.guelaguetzarestaurante.com.

Gus's Barbecue will prepare your holiday meal with all the trimmings: 10- to 12-pound smoked turkey, 1 quart of gravy, 1 quart of corn bread stuffing and 1 quart of cranberry sauce. An oven-safe bag is provided for the turkey as well as reheating instructions. Serves 4 to 6 people, for $60. Place your order by Friday (Nov. 20) and pick it up Nov. 25. 808 Fair Oaks Ave., South Pasadena; (626) 799-3251; www.gussbbq.com.

Joan's on Third offers Thanksgiving a la carte, so you can order as much or as little as you'd like. A 12-pound turkey is $65, a quart of gravy is $17, wild mushroom bread pudding for four is $18, and so on. There are numerous sides, salads, breads and desserts from which to choose. Open for walk-ins on Nov. 25 or order by Thursday, Nov. 19. 8350 1/2 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles; (323) 655-2285; www.joansonthird.com.

For take-home Thanksgiving trimmings from Josie, you can order from a selection of appetizers, soups, salads, side dishes and desserts. Options include quiche with wild mushrooms and Gruye`re (9-inch, $30); butternut squash soup (1 quart, $24); corn bread stuffing with wild sage, baby artichokes and mushrooms (small, $22; large, $44); pumpkin or pecan pie (9-inch, $30); and sticky pecan pumpkin cake ($54). Order by 1 p.m. Nov. 24. Pick up on Nov. 25. 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 2420 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica; (310) 581-9888; www.josierestaurant.com.

You can order Thanksgiving trimmings from the Larchmont Larder until Friday (Nov. 20). Options include fennel sausage-corn bread stuffing ($20, serves six to eight); creamy mashed potatoes (1 quart, $10); sweet potato casserole with rum and pecans ($18); roasted root vegetables with shallots and sage ($10 for a quart). There are plenty more vegetables, soups, gravy and sauce, along with pies (apple, dried fruit, pumpkin, for $24 to $32). Ready for pickup Nov. 25, 2 to 7 p.m. 626 N. Larchmont Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 962-9900 (or e-mail katie@larchmontlarder.com); www.larchmontlarder.com.

The downtown, West Hollywood and Venice locations of Lemonade are offering to-go traditional Thanksgiving dinners. Roast turkey for 12 is $50; sides e.g. mashed potatoes, spaghetti squash and sweet potato casserole are $14 to 18; and pies go for $20 a pop. Order before Thursday. 9001 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 247-2500; 515 S. Flower St., Los Angeles, (213) 488-0299; 1661 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; (310) 452-6200; www.lemonadela.com.

Little Dom's has a family-style takeout menu for Thanksgiving, for six to eight people. It includes a 12-pound organic free-range deep-fried turkey (fried in peanut oil) with giblet gravy for $68. Sides are priced a la carte: roasted Brussels sprouts with wild boar bacon; homemade fennel sausage and mushroom stuffing; gingerbread cupcakes; and pumpkin cake. 2128 Hillhurst Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 661-0055; www.littledoms.com.

Among Little Next Door's Thanksgiving offerings are salad with persimmons and candied pecans; roasted turkey stuffed with Pink Lady apples and raisins with Madeira giblet gravy; wild mushroom and sage stuffing; lingonberry chutney; and pecan bourbon pie or tarte tatin. Place orders by Friday. $45 per person, with a six-person minimum. Pick up by 4 p.m. Nov. 26. 8142 W. 3rd St., Los

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EATS: Jazz up the everyday menu with early potato dishes

EATS: Jazz up the everyday menu with early potato dishes

Mashed, fried, boiled, baked. Potatoes are the ubiquitous side dish at just about every meal. Hash browns for breakfast, french fries for lunch. And at dinner the selection's just about endless.

Jazz up your everyday menu with three new spud dishes that topped the field in this week's EATS contest.

Pat D'Innocenzo took this week's $25 prize with her Yukon Gold and Sweet Potato Gratin, a creamy casserole that is as eye-catching as it is delicious.

Finalist Mary Ahearn impressed judges with her Sweet Potato Casserole, a dish that's almost as good as dessert. And runner-up Betty Talley made the top trio with her rich, layered Cheesy-Potato Casserole.

Yukon Gold and Sweet Potato Gratin

By Pat D'Innocenzo

6 tbsp. (3/4 stick) butter, room temperature, divided

2 1/4 lbs. of Yukon gold potatoes, rinsed

1 1/2 lbs. of red skinned sweet potatoes (yams) peeled

2 cups whole milk

1 garlic clove pressed

1 tbsp. kosher salt

2 tbsp. fresh thyme leaves

1 tsp. ground black pepper

1/8 tsp. ground nutmeg

1 cup whipping cream

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Coat 13 x 9 x 2 inch glass baking dish with 2 tbsp. butter. Thinly slice all potatoes in prepared dish. Bring milk and next 5 ingredients to boil in medium saucepan. Pour over potatoes. cover with foil. Bake till tender and milk is almost absorbed, about 50 minutes.

Bring cream to boil in saucepan. Uncover potatoes, pour cream over and dot with 2 tbsp. butter. Bake uncovered until top is golden brown in spots, about 25 minutes. Cool slightly. Serves 12.

Sweet Potato Casserole

By Mary Ahearn

3 cups hot, mashed sweet potatoes

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 tsp. salt

2 large eggs

1/4 cup soft butter

1/2 tsp. vanilla

1/2 cup milk

Topping:

1 cup chopped pecans

3 tbsp. soft butter

1/2 cup brown sugar

1/3 cup flour

In large bowl, combine potatoes, sugar, salt, eggs, 1/4 cup butter, vanilla, milk. Place in greased 11/2 quart baking dish. In small bowl, combine brown sugar, flour, pecans and remaining butter. Top sweet potato casserole with this crumbled mixture. Bake at 350 degrees for 30-35 minutes.

Cheesy-Potato Casserole

By Betty Talley

2 cups low fat cottage cheese

2 tbsp. oil

1/4 cup sliced green onion

2 tbsp. flour

1 tsp. parsley flakes

1/4 tsp. salt

1/8 tsp. pepper

1 tsp. thyme

6 medium potatoes, cooked, peeled and sliced

1/3 cup low fat milk

1/2 cup bread crumbs

2 tbsp. grated Parmesan cheese

2 tbsp. butter or margarine

Boil potatoes in skins until tender. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease 11/2 quart casserole. Beat cottage cheese and oil with rotary beater until fluffy. Mix in onion. Combine flour and seasonings. Place a layer of potatoes in casserole. Cover with layer of cottage cheese. Sprinkle with seasoned flour. Repeat layers, ending with potatoes. Pour milk over layers. Mix bread crumbs with cheese. Sprinkle over potatoes. Dot with butter. Bake 30 minutes.

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In Season Now: Yams, cranberries and more Thanksgiving treats

In Season Now: Yams, cranberries and more Thanksgiving treats

Thanksgiving is coming soon, and with it all of the conventional dishes, many good, some not so good. I'll be hosting this year with family members supplementing the feast. I'm not sure of the exact menu yet, but no Jell-O'll be harmed in the making of our meal. It wouldn't be Thanksgiving if I didn't mention the Turquoise Shrimp Jell-O Mystery my grandma presented to us one year. Luckily for us, she is a very talented cook otherwise. (Do I still get some ravioli, Gramma?)

Sweet potatoes and yams

The sweet potato is a delicious vegetable that has been unfairly maligned over the years due to of the association with the syrupy canned ones. There are actually two vegetables referred to as sweet potatoes. One is the actual sweet potato, which has a tan skin and light orange flesh. It is not very sweet and, in my opinion, has a gritty texture. The different "sweet potato" is really a yam. Yams have dark red skin and deep orange, creamy flesh. I don't concern for real sweet potatoes, so all recipes there refer to yams.

My husband thought he hated yams, because he had only tried the slimy, super-sweet, canned kind. He was amazed the first time he tried a fresh, baked yam. Yams could be baked either in the microwave or the oven in the same way as potatoes. (I actually like to use the microwave first to soften, then the oven to finish.) Poke them with a fork first, so they don't explode. The baking time depends on the size of the yam and the wattage of the microwave. They are delicious with butter, salt and pepper.

One of my best school food memories is the sweet potato pie made by the Bakersfield City School District cafeterias in the 1970s (not forgetting the peanut butter squares and flying saucer cookies, of course). Sweet potato pie tastes very similar to pumpkin pie, but has a creamier texture. A simple recipe for sweet potato pie can be found here.

Sweet potatoes are a traditional side dish for Thanksgiving, as well. This sweet potato casserole is less sweet than the traditional type made with canned yams and tastes great.

Pumpkin pie

Pumpkin pie is very easy to make. I prefer to make pie crust, but frozen pie crust is a time saver. For many years, I used the recipe on the back of the can of pumpkin. But last year I tried this Cook's Illustrated pie recipe. It's more work than the usual kind, but it makes a very creamy pie. It uses a combination of pumpkin and sweet potato and was very fashionable when I made it last year.

For an alternative to pie, these chocolate-pumpkin cheesecake bars are simple and tasty. I like the pumpkin/chocolate combination.

Gluten-free Thanksgiving options

Those with gluten intolerance don't have to feel left out at Thanksgiving. There are many delicious GF replacements for traditional foods so the allergic people at the table don't have to have their "special" dish of food, but can eat what everyone else eats. I learned this attitude from my gluten-intolerant neighbors who helped me so much when I was diagnosed. Jan and Karyn both concentrate on making gluten-free foods that are so delicious, they can be served to the entire table with no apology. This is my goal as well.

This GF pie crust, while not as delicious as Happy Jack's pie crust (an impossibly high standard), is still as great as most gluten crusts.

A delicious alternative to regular pie crust is a nut crust. I usually use the one from "Joy of Cooking," which is very similar to this one. Nut crusts are especially good with cheesecake.

For those who like stuffing, here are naturally GF alternatives. I really like cornbread stuffing, like this one. Simply use a GF cornbread mix. The one from the Gluten Free Pantry is so good, no one will notice it's gluten-free.

Parsnips

Parsnips look like white carrots, but have a stronger, less sweet flavor. Parsnips are nice in a roasted vegetable mix, and also make a delicious soup. Here is a recipe for warm pesto roasted vegetables and here is one for creamy parsnip soup.

Cranberry sauce

I don't cognize why people purchase cranberry sauce in a can when it's so easy to make! Homemade cranberry sauce is miles better than the canned kind. The simplest recipe is the one on the back of the cranberry bag -- just cranberries, sugar and water simmered together.

There are delicious variations on the basic recipe using oranges, raspberries, cherries and other fruits. Here is a recipe for cranberry-orange sauce.

I have had this cranberry Jell-O salad and enjoyed it, even though I don't usually like Jell-O.

One of the women in my on-the-internet book group (we read the wonderful Betsy-Tacy series by Maud Hart Lovelace) shared this delicious cranberry chutney recipe with us. My family loves it. I used to make a different cranberry sauce every year, but this has become a staple.

Kathy Baxter's Cranberry Chutney

1 cup orange sections

1/4 cup orange juice

4 cups cranberries

2 cups sugar

1 cup unpeeled, cored chopped apple

1/2 cup raisins

1/2 cup chopped toasted walnuts

1 Tbsp white vinegar (don't leave this out!)

1/2 tsp ginger

1/2 tsp cinnamon

Put all ingredients into a medium to large saucepan. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat and simmer until the cranberries initiate to burst.

Pie Run

The Pie Run is my favorite way to start Thanksgiving morning. Everyone is welcome to join in. Admission is a pie or some other breakfast treat. We meet at 6 a.m. at the group picnic area in Hart Park (just follow the headlights). John Rous assembles the group (usually about 100 people) and we begin. People run or pace the distance of their choice, some around the park, some toward Lake Ming and some up into the hills. I am convinced that some just take a lap around the heavily-laden table.

We all return to the area for pie, coffee and a warming in front of the bonfire. The sunrise is always gorgeous, the pie delicious and the company congenial. The food is so abundant someone always takes a carload of unopened pies and goodies to share with the Homeless Center after the run is over. I will probably bring these seven-layer bars, which are delicious and gluten-free.

More about winter squashes

I recently made a delicious squash soup. The recipe calls for acorn squash, but I used carnival and butternut squashes, because that is what I had on hand. This recipe calls for bacon, which adds a nice flavor. I buy Niman Ranch bacon from Trader Joe's, because the ranch uses humane practices. Here is the recipe for acorn squash soup with kale.

If you are baking winter squash, consider buying some extra and pureeing it after baking. Squash puree freezes very well, and is handy to make a quick soup.

Food Inc.

My husband and I recently rented the movie "Food Inc." I have read quite a bit about the subject, and still learned some new information. It is a great movie, and I think anyone who eats food should watch it.

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Hall takes grand prize in annual cookbook contest

Hall takes grand prize in annual cookbook contest

PARKERSBURG - For the 55th year The Parkersburg News as well as Sentinel presents its cookbook filled with recipes from our readers across the Mid-Ohio Valley.

This year the winner of the grand prize is J. Patrick Hall, 41, of Smithville, who submitted the winning recipe for peas and carrots tortellini salad with pesto. Hall's winning recipe able to be found on page 3 of the cookbook.

Hall's salad was selected as the top recipe out of more than 30 recipes at the annual tasting and judging in October and from among hundreds of recipes entered into competition.

Hall said his recipe evolved with different ingredients until he found the mix that was just right.

"It was put together based on individual things," he said. "I tried different things and when they didn't work I went back to the drawing board and tried something else."

As winner of this year's competition, Hall'll be one of the judges for the 2010 contest. Hall said he is excited for the opportunity and is looking forward to seeing how others present their foods as well as what they will create.

As winner of the contest he will take home a $750 prize package of upscale knives and kitchen utensils from Fulton Inc. on Market Street in Parkersburg.

Category winners, their recipes and other finalists were:

Soups: first place, Butternut Squash and Apple Soup, Jane E. Burdette, Parkersburg; second, Autumn Harvest Potato Soup, Debbie Martin, Mineral Wells; and third, Seafood Gumbo, Philip Stoneking, Parkersburg. Other finalists were: Carrot Soup Puree, Connie Childress, Parkersburg; and Seafood Gumbo, Philip Stoneking, Parkersburg.

Main dishes: first place, Pesto Lemon Chicken Ravioli, Andrea Deem, Parkersburg; second, Vegetable Stuffed Fish Roll-Ups, Cheryl Oplinger, Vienna; and third, Cornish Game Hen with Coconut Rice. Other finalists were: Judy Piersall, Marietta; Tuscan Crockpot Pasta, Janet Rogers, Belleville; and Amazing Venison Rolls, Stacy Morgan, Vincent.

Side dishes: first place, Vidalia Onion Pie, Tresha Coe, Washington, W.Va.; second, Cranberry-Apple Casserole, Jan Heron, Vienna; and third, Rice Casserole, Amanda Deems, Vienna. Other finalists were: Doc's Best Jerky, Jeremy Doc Moore, Belmont; and Mandarin Orange Sweet Potato Casserole, Mrs. Joseph C. Snyder, Parkersburg.

Salads: first place, Peas and Carrots Tortellini Salad with Pesto, J. Patrick Hall, Smithville, W.Va.; second, Dilly Shrimp Salad, Shannan Allen, Mineral Wells; and third, Garbanzo Bean Salad, Patricia Burdine, Williamstown. Other finalists were: Dijon Chicken Salad, Janet Atkinson, Williamstown; and Bloody Mary Tomato Salad, Vickie Davis, St. Marys.

Appetizers: first place, Cranberry Crab Meat and Cream Cheese Appetizers, Tammy Morrison, Newport; second, Holiday Appetizer Wreath, Anna McQuaid, Williamstown; and third, Cream Puff Minis with Chicken Salad, Debby Carouthers, Belmont. Other finalists were: Mini Crab Cakes, Jim McLean, Vienna; and Brie En Croute, Stephen Jones, Walker.

Breads: first place, Garden Biscuits, Michael Matthews, Belpre; second, World's Best Walnut Zucchini Bread, Jean Wilkinson, Washington, W.Va.; and third, Cantaloupe Bread, Darlene Enoch, Leroy, W.Va. Other finalists were: Sweet Braided Loaves, LaChresia Bogardus, Coolville; and Crescent Rolls, Jean H. Cronin, Harrisville.

Desserts: first place, Caramel Apple Cheesecake, Anna Dean, St. Marys; second, Caramel Pumpkin Delight with Cream Cheese Frosting, Linda Nichols, Parkersburg; and third, Apple Dapple Cake, Peggy Cisco (via Billie Bailey), Parkersburg. Other finalists were: S'More Cheesecake, Matt Petty, Marietta; and Pumpkin Carole, Carole Jones, Waverly.

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Sweet potato casserole combine gets mixed response from consumer panel

Sweet potato casserole combine gets mixed response from consumer panel

It's a sure bet most homes in the South will have at least one sweet potato casserole on the menu during the holidays. Most are made from a favorite family recipe. Now, Betty Crocker has introduced a boxed sweet potato casserole complete with pouches of instant sweet potatoes, seasoning and pecan streusel topping.

How did this packaged version sit with members of your Times-Union Consumer Panel? Is it something they would serve to guests? Several gave the casserole good ratings and would serve it to guests, but it didn't fare as well with the other panelists.

"My family really liked the Betty Crocker Sweet Potato Casserole," said sales consultant Catherine Rogers. "It tasted homemade to us."

She described the potatoes as creamy, spiced with cinnamon and topped with many crisp crunchy pecan streusel. "The dish is sweet, but that's how it's supposed to be. It tasted just right to us."

Rogers said her grandmother usually makes a sweet potato casserole for the holidays but added, "If I had to make it, I'd buy the mix."

Business owner Scott Greenfield said the sweet potato casserole was well-to-do to make, with a foundation of thick and creamy sweet potatoes seasoned with a little bit of cinnamon. But he said it was very sweet.

"It's a sweet potato pie hiding in a casserole," he said. "It's more like a dessert and has an unbelievable, unnecessary amount of sugar. There's plenty of streusel topping with very small tidbits of pecans. After it cooks, it's crunchy, sugary and very sweet."

Homemaker Janine Thiemann usually makes a sweet potato casserole for most holidays. She said the Betty Crocker casserole, which she took to a pot luck supper, looked homemade, was convenient to make, but it couldn't compare to the real thing.

"The streusel is the sweetest and best part," she said. "It's slightly crisp with a sweet buttery flavor. The sweet potato filling isn't flavorful enough. It tastes like flour and is very bland, but the streusel makes it palatable."

"I think they did a darn good job with this product," said sales representative Angie Tekin. "And, darlin', I'm a Southerner, and sweet potatoes are sacred to us."

She liked the dish right out of the oven, when it was "smooth and cloud-like," and described it as sweet enough to satisfy, without being overpowering. But she said it could use a few more pecans.

"I'd serve it to family and guests. Out of six testers, four loved it. It's priced right, easy to prepare and very tasty. It would make a great sweet potato pie filling."

But teacher Cyndi Mc- Knight found little to like about the sweet potato casserole. For starters, the milk she was heating for the casserole boiled over on the stove. "I don't know how much liquid I lost, but at least 1/2 cup," she said. "I don't know how that affected my dish."

She described the finished product as gluey and thick with a soft dry topping and a fake sweet flavor. "It has so many preservatives in it, there's nothing redeeming about it. I'd never serve it to guests."

A 2/3-cup serving of the casserole contains 270 calories, 12 grams of fat, 410 milligrams of sodium, 17 grams of sugars, less than 5 milligrams of cholesterol and 1.5 grams of trans fat.

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Thanksgiving Dinner Menu Ideas: Meal Planning From Turkey to Dessert

Thanksgiving Dinner Menu Ideas: Meal Planning From Turkey to Dessert

You could go with the old faithfuls of sweet potato casserole and green beans or you can add a little more adventure to this Thanksgiving dinner recipe plan. Whatever you decide, I've put together several dinner menu items for you to peruse before you hit the grocery store.

Turkey: I prefer roasted to fried (some may say I'm in the minority but I've pulled together a ton of turkey tips for however you'd like to do your bird this year.

Turkey Stuffing & Gravy Tips

Safely Deep Frying a Turkey

Roast turkey and Gravy

Stuffing: I wrote a post on stuffing and cranberry sauce recipes last night and have decided for my own dinner to go with the Ginger cranberry sauce and Stuffing with goat cheese, cherries and smoked ham

Side Dishes: For side dishes I am going pretty traditional this year, Scalloped Potatoes for the starch and Balsamic Roasted Brussels Sprouts as my veg recipe.

Desserts: By far my favorite course, I am producing Banana Chocolate Chip Bread and have been able to outsource the pie making to different family members (we're doing apple and pumpkin.

Good luck with your own Thanksgiving dinner recipes this year and let me know what you ended up cooking.

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Sweet Potato Casserole Recipe is Thanksgiving Favorite

Sweet Potato Casserole Recipe is Thanksgiving Favorite

Sweet potato casserole is a traditional side dish for Thanksgiving. If you leave out the sugar, butter and sticky marshmallows, the essential ingredient -- the sweet potato -- is one of the most nutrient dense vegetables available. Add pecans, brown sugar, marshmallows and different toppings and you might not get the same nutrient values, but sweet potato casserole is just too good to pass up.

There are many variations on the traditional Sweet Potato Casserole recipe. If you search the Internet, you'll come up with both traditional sweet versions and a little of that are savory and cut back on the sugary sweet stuff.

Go ahead and enjoy an ultra sugary sweet potato casserole for the holidays .. it's tradition. You can get back to enjoying the health benefits of a sweet potato without the marshmallows after the holidays.

Here is a traditional recipe from Better Homes and Gardens for Sweet Potato Casserole that doesn't use marshmallows. You can add them if you'd like:

* 2 pounds sweet potatoes
* 1/2 cup sugar
* 1/4 cup butter, melted
* 1/4 cup milk
* 2 eggs, lightly beaten
* 1 teaspoon vanilla
* 1/2 cup packed brown sugar
* 1/2 cup chopped pecans
* 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
* 1 tablespoon butter, melted

Directions

1. Wash and peel sweet potatoes. Cut off woody portions and ends. Cut into quarters. In a large saucepan, cook potatoes, covered, in enough boiling salted water to cover for 25 to 30 minutes or until tender; drain.

2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Transfer potatoes to a large mixing bowl. Mash lightly. Stir in sugar, 1/4 cup melted butter, milk, eggs, and vanilla. Transfer sweet potato mixture to a 2-quart casserole dish.

3. In a small mixing bowl, combine brown sugar, pecans, flour, and 1 tablespoon melted butter. Sprinkle over sweet potato mixture.

4. Bake, uncovered in preheated oven for 30 to 35 minutes or until hot and bubbly.

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